The best of the best.
Between the flocks of photographers, hoards of well-dressed individuals and increased number of minivans around central it would be hard to miss the fact that London Fashion Week has made its return this September. While the news of the Queen has altered a few plans, many designers have respectfully continued on with their scheduled shows, paying homage to her Majesty in their own individual ways.
From British fashion favourites like Molly Goddard and Rixo, to designers-on-the-rise like Masha Popova and Nensi Dojaka, the city has been a buzz with creativity as brands debut their Spring/Summer 2023 collections. Of course, we’re here to fill you in on all the happenings, so keep scrolling for the highlights from London Fashion Week S/S23.
1. Molly Goddard
It was all neon, stripes, ruffles and tuille at Molly Goddard – and, we will take it all, please. Goddard’s vision for SS23 is full of get-up-and-go. As models walked in zag zag patterns around the Seymour Leisure Centre in Marylebone, London, a rousing soundtrack of Kele Le Roc’s ‘Things we do for love’ fused the energy of Garage with the classicism of violins – the mood was palpable. It’s all about having fun with getting dressed. Wearability was key, with some models ducking behind the curtain swapping items previously worn with other separates – these are pieces that can fit seamlessly into your wardrobe and can be worn time and time again. All of this culminated in a showstopping voluminous white gown – a contender for the best alternative wedding dress IMHO. – SM
2. Christopher Kane
A compendium of wardrobe icons, for his return to London Fashion Week, Kane revisited the classics. From the anatomy drawings, use of gels, florals, cut-out tops and those Kane pinks, it was all there – and we’re all here for it. This was all about a forensic exploration of the body, with references to the anatomy, medical illustrations and cut-outs a plenty. Wardrobe classics were reworked a simple grey cardigan held together with a clear vinyl structure that mimicked a skeleton, could easily slot into your wardrobe. – SM
3. Rejina Pyo
Set amongst the clouds on the 28th floor of a building with London skyline views, Rejina Pyo debuted her Spring/Summer 2023 collection on Sunday. A voiceover discussing women in the workplace played in the background, as models strode through in tailored separates, including structured trench coats and buttoned blazers. Sheer pieces (like tops, skirts and billowing dresses) were also a focus of the collection, which Pyo noted can be worn with or without linings.
Exploring what it means to love and work, this collection was a celebration of women, and as usual, Pyo is offering a range women cannot wait to wear. – ZA
4. Nensi Dojaka
There are few designers who do chic sex appeal, quite like Nensi Dojaka. The designer has become known for her intricate cut-out dresses, sheer layering and body-con aesthetic. This season, the designer stepped it up a notch, adding denim to her repertoire amongst a collection of quintessential Nensi lace-trimmed mini dresses, stretch fabric midis and biker shorts. The range felt romantic in nature. We saw varying shades of pink dotted throughout, alongside a sweet heart-shaped appliqué motif. Has Nensi’s signature party girl fallen in love?
The pièce de résistance came when globally-adored supermodel, Emily Ratajkowski, emerged from backstage to close the show dressed in a floor-length pink gown complete with a trailing sheer train. Audible gasps were heard amongst the crowd. It was, as they say, quite the moment. – ZA
5. Dilara Fındıkoğlu
It’s been a particularly quiet season – everything has been still. Apart from the collective minutes of silence held (approximately 20) the music and soundtrack to shows has been paired back. Case in point, at the Dilara Fındıkoğlu SS23 show, rousing classical music played whilst guests were seated but as soon as the first model crept up the stairwell of a derelict W2 building the music stopped. Casting an ominous mood, footsteps, heels on panelled wooden floors, fabrics being pulled and twisted whilst snagging on the floor, the rustle of denim, jingling bells attached to shoes sending sounds ricocheting across the room were the only things audible. The craftsmanship here is seriously impressive: these are clothes that speak volumes. Full of sex, glamour and a gothic edge, from the re-worked denim dress (a big trend for SS23), corsetry, soft lace and tailoring, this was Fındıkoğlu’s most wearable collection yet. – SM
6. Eudon Choi
Mixing sleek tailoring alongside fluid, floaty dresses, Eudon Choi’s collection could be at home in any chic woman’s wardrobe. The collection felt elevated, yet wearable with a palette of summery shades including bright orange, sky blue, mustard yellow. – ZA
For this collection, designer Marco Capaldo looked to the Forget Me Not flower, a faded blue floral which is seen as a symbol of love, devotion, and remembrance. This is a fitting tribute to Marco’s partner and co-founder, the late Federica ‘Kikka’ Cavenati, who passed away last year. The collection featured a palette of pastel blue, black and buttery cream, interspersed with snakeskin, checks and leather pieces. Waistlines were low, with a mixture of micro mini skirts and ankles-skimming maxis throughout.
Of course, the collection felt party-ready, which the 16Arlington customer has come to expect from the brand, but Capaldo rounded out the offering with a renewed focus on tailoring. Boxy blazers were worn over midi skirts, and floor-length coats with wide, padded shoulders in shades of dusty pink and blue were seen alongside shimmering, crystal-covered dresses and pleated mini skirts. – ZA
You can always rely on Rixo to bring the good vibes to London Fashion Week. The brand’s founders Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey definitely know how to host a feel-good presentation. The collection was complete with Rixo’s signature vibrant colours and playful prints, all worn by dancing models with smiles on their faces. In a week that’s felt heavy, this was a light reprieve.
Inspired by a trip to Goa, prints within the collection featured intricate patterns borrowed from ceramics and tiles discovered in the region. The designers also worked to create new silhouettes, introducing structured dresses worn alongside jackets, as well as a number of co-ords. – ZA
9. Poster Girl
Y2K but make it fashion, that was the order of the day at Poster Girl. While the brand is known for its signature fishnet shapewear, the S/S23 collection included a far more varied offering. From low-slung trousers adorned with statement belts to oversize tailored blazers and mini skirts, Poster Girl is certainly evolving its range to include much more than just stretch fabric and dresses. – ZA
See more of the best looks from London Fashion Week S/S23 below: